Boat Buying Guide

What I want to look at buying more used outboard?
Heres an example out of a complement to Craigslist.
* Outboard 50 hp Force 1986. 140psi compression on two cylinders. new water pump, ignition coil, points / condenser, and a package of carbohydrates. Lower unit closed. This engine is in good shape and ran great on my boat last summer. I do not think this engine had many hours on it the way it is clean. Trees lower the unit disk and the proposal was like new when I closed it. My 1964 Alumacraft runabout was originally a Mercury 50, so I found one, and therefore, it must go. No control. The controls can be found at Twin City Outboard in Shakopee, MN for about $ 50.00 for this engine *

140psi is a good compression? also what are the controls? is that the steering cable and other cables. What if you buy a speedboat with one where you head to the back you need controls?

Get a brand that has parts that you can get, because you will need it. Pull the pull starter slowly and you should feel the compression as it turns. If it is too easy, and you do not get a good p-thupa as he turns, he may need to be rebuilt. Ideally, you should see him running in the water. There should be a tell tale steady stream on the back of the engine (for most outboard motors). If he dribbles, or is not there, you need a new water pump (hundreds). I want a little oil drain lower unit. If it is milky, then you may have lower unit seals (some hundreds).

This, and dirty carbohydrates are the most common problems. If the engine has been used in salt water, then you can count on the lower unit bolts were seized if you need to enter.

In this case, all common problems have been fixed, so the only question I have is that it is a strength, and they are much smaller than Merc / Johnson / Evenrude the same power.

compression test is the main thing you learn about the overall health of the engine.

140psi is excellent, but the key is to have a uniform compression on all cylinders. An engine of 1986 with 105psi would be nice if the two cylinders are equal. 70's - 80's Johnson / Evinrude V-4 were 90-95psi by design, but others I know, generally seek to over 100.

But mostly, if not the lowest in the 5 or 7 percent of the highest, on foot.

If you can not take a test drive, do a spark test as well. Most outboard engines from mid-70's forward have magneto-ignition engine with CDI, and should be able to generate a strong blue spark jumping 1 / 2 "to the launch speed outside the cylinder on a line spark tester (male couple Autozone).

Ask the owner to run it for you - if it does not supply water to the lower unit on foot. He does not know what he does - it takes only 30-45 seconds dry run to ruin a turbine water pump. Unless of course it's an air-cooled Briggs & Stratton or something.

You can not judge how to start a speedboat and idles without overwhelming the lower unit - without the cons-pressure exhaust gases under water, even a motor untuned shit can seem much.

Outboards are either bar "direct" or "remote" or "remote head". Most outboard motors with remote 2-cylinder can be converted into a bar with a kit, and vice versa.

I agree with 40-something - or Wed johnnyrude engines are reliable with excellent parts support.